Evenstar Designs

New stays! I always say I'll never make another pair again, but then I do. This time I used American Duchess's Simplicity Pattern  with the accuracy "hacks" on the American Duchess blog. For example, I made hand sewn eyelets instead of grommets (did I ever mention I HATE grommets?), and I sewed the lining in after binding which is a more accurate 18th century construction method. I used off-white cotton for the outside and interlining, and linen for the lining. The entire garment is sewn by hand, but I did cheat and use plastic zip ties for boning. I love that these stays lace in the front and back which makes them much more adjustable and more comfy to wear. I also added some embroidery details just because I can. I successfully taught myself how to embroider the detached buttonhole stitch, which is great for making larger shapes on which you don't want to use the satin stitch.  This is the inside of the stays with pink satin ribbon lacing up the back:

I call it a "faux polonaise" because it was a mistake... the kind of mistake you make when you try to hand sew a gown by yourself in about four days. I only had 2.5 yards of the fabric which we figured was enough to make a short gown. But while a was burning the midnight oil, I forgot that tiny detail, and cut the skirt full length. This meant that the skirt would be awkwardly narrow. So I decided I could disguise the lack of fullness by decorating it in the 1780s style and pretending it was a polonaise with out the "polonaised" skirt. It worked well enough. It was so much fun to fit the gown to a real person instead of a dress form! I spent hours hand hemming and gathering white trim, but I love the way it looked! It's also really fun to sew outside when the weather is nice! And here she is wearing it in Williamsburg with a neckerchief: Not my best work, but she wore it well, and I think the ruffles are darling!